Common Screen Printing Exposure Problems and Solutions
In screen printing, exposure is key to good templates. But issues like underexposure, overexposure, pinholes, and blurry edges mess things up. This blog breaks down why they happen and gives quick fixes to boost your printing game.
Underexposure
Problem Description
In screen printing, underexposure can cause the stencil to break down during rinsing or the emulsion to not fully harden during printing. This messes up the stencil quality and leads to printing failures.
Cause Analysis
- Not Enough Exposure Time: The emulsion doesn’t get enough UV light to fully cure.
- Weak Light Source: The light isn’t strong enough to give off the needed UV energy.
- Screen Too Far from Light: If the screen is too far, the light spreads out and loses its effect.
Solutions
To avoid underexposure, try these fixes:
- Adjust Exposure Time:
- Increase the time based on the emulsion type and light strength.
- Different emulsions react differently to UV light—check the manufacturer’s guide for timing.
- If you’re unsure, test with an exposure calculator.
- Make Sure the Light is Strong Enough:
- Use a light made for screen printing, like a 250W halogen bulb or a pro UV exposure unit.
- Replace old or weak bulbs if they’re not cutting it.
- Fix the Screen-to-Light Distance:
- Keep the screen 12-18 inches (30-45 cm) from the light, depending on your setup.
- Too far scatters the light; too close might overexpose it.
- Use an Exposure Calculator:
- This simple tool tests different times to find what works.
- It helps you nail the perfect time for full curing and clear details.
Things to Watch
- Don’t crank up the time too much at once—bump it up slowly and test.
- Keep stray light out of the exposure area for better UV results.
- If it keeps happening, check the emulsion quality or if the light’s wavelength matches.

Overexposure
Problem Description
Overexposure is a big issue in screen printing. It wipes out fine details on the stencil or makes the emulsion impossible to rinse off, clogging the stencil. This ruins precision, especially for detailed or tricky designs.
Cause Analysis
- Too Much Exposure Time: The emulsion gets too much UV light and hardens completely, so unexposed parts won’t rinse off.
- Light Too Strong: A super intense light overcures the emulsion, especially if the time isn’t adjusted.
- Low Pattern Contrast: If the black parts of the design aren’t solid black or the background isn’t clear, light sneaks through and exposes details.
Solutions
To fix overexposure, here’s what you can do:
- Cut Back Exposure Time and Test:
- Time controls how much the emulsion cures. Reduce it bit by bit and test.
- Try a step wedge test—test different times on one screen to see what keeps details and rinses well.
- Check Pattern Contrast:
- Make sure the black parts are pure black to block UV light.
- Print with a good machine at least 300 DPI.
- Use fully transparent film for the background to stop light scatter.
- Tweak Light Strength:
- If the light’s too strong, switch to a lower-power bulb or move the screen farther away.
- With pro UV units, check if you can adjust the intensity.
- Find the Sweet Spot with a Step Test:
- A step test shows what time cures the emulsion but keeps details sharp.
- Write down each test result and pick the one with clear details and full curing.
Things to Watch
- Overexposure clogs stencils, and they’re tough to clean, so test carefully.
- If it won’t stop, check the emulsion or light wavelength match.
- Block stray light from messing with the UV.

Pinholes in the Stencil
Problem Description
Pinholes are a common headache in screen printing. They show up as tiny holes in the stencil after rinsing. These let ink leak through during printing, screwing up quality—especially on big areas or fine designs.
Cause Analysis
- Dust on Screen or Film: Dust blocks the emulsion from coating evenly, leaving holes.
- Uneven Emulsion Coating: Thin or patchy emulsion can form weak spots that turn into pinholes.
- Light Scatter: If the design isn’t tight against the screen during exposure, light sneaks around and causes holes.
Solutions
To tackle pinholes, try these:
- Clean Everything Well:
- Before coating, make sure the screen and workspace are spotless.
- Use a screen cleaner to wipe out grease, dust, or junk.
- Work in a dust-free spot so nothing lands on the screen or film.
- Coat Emulsion Evenly:
- Use a good scoop coater to spread the emulsion smooth.
- Keep your speed and pressure steady—don’t let it get too thin or thick.
- After coating, check for weak spots and add more if needed.
- Use a Vacuum Frame or Heavy Glass:
- During exposure, keep the design tight against the screen.
- A vacuum frame or heavy glass stops light from leaking around the edges.
- This cuts down on scatter and pinholes.
- Check Emulsion and Light:
- Make sure the emulsion isn’t expired and stored right.
- Confirm the light’s wavelength fits the emulsion to avoid uneven curing.
Things to Watch
- Don’t touch the screen with bare hands before coating—oil or dirt can mess it up.
- If pinholes keep popping up, patch them with stencil filler after exposure.
- Clean your gear regularly to keep the workspace tidy.

Blurry Edges
Problem Description
Blurry edges in screen printing make the stencil look messy. For fine designs or text, it kills clarity and hurts the print quality. This usually happens during exposure or design prep.
Cause Analysis
- Design Not Tight to Screen: Gaps let light scatter and blur the edges.
- Light Scatter: Unfocused light from a loose design or shaky source fuzzes things up.
- Bad Exposure: Too long or too short exposure can blur edges—overexposure lets light creep into design borders.
- Low Design Resolution: Low-res designs look jagged or fuzzy, wrecking the stencil.
Solutions
To fix blurry edges, here’s what to do:
- Keep Design Tight to Screen:
- Use a vacuum frame or heavy glass during exposure to press the design flat against the screen.
- No frame? Use a glass plate to weigh it down evenly.
- Avoid Overexposure:
- Too much light blurs edges. Cut time bit by bit and test.
- A step wedge test finds the right spot for sharp edges.
- Use High-Res Film:
- Aim for at least 300 DPI for crisp edges.
- Print with a solid machine and make sure blacks are deep and the background’s clear.
- Cut Light Scatter:
- Check that the light’s steady and not too spread out.
- Use a UV source made for screen printing, matched to the emulsion.
- Sharpen the Design:
- At the design stage, keep edges clean and sharp—skip low-res images.
- Use pro software like Illustrator or Photoshop to tweak edges.
Things to Watch
- Before exposure, double-check the design fits snug against the screen.
- If blurry edges won’t quit, try a new emulsion or light source.
- Keep stray light out to focus the UV.

Emulsion Residue or Haze
Problem Description
After rinsing in screen printing, you might see faint emulsion residue or haze on the stencil. This clouds the stencil and hurts print quality, making designs less sharp and blocking ink flow.
Cause Analysis
- Underexposure: The emulsion doesn’t fully cure, so some won’t rinse off, leaving residue.
- Expired Emulsion: Old or poorly stored emulsion loses curing power.
- Weak Rinse: Low water pressure or short rinse time leaves uncured emulsion behind.
Solutions
To clear up residue or haze, try this:
- Bump Up Exposure Time a Bit:
- Underexposure is the main culprit. Add a little time to fully cure the emulsion.
- Use an exposure calculator or step test to find the right time without overdoing it.
- Check Emulsion Shelf Life:
- Make sure the emulsion’s fresh and stored right (no light, not too hot).
- If it’s old or bad, grab a new batch.
- Rinse with Enough Pressure:
- Hit the screen with decent water pressure right after exposure to clear uncured emulsion.
- Spray both sides evenly, especially on details, to avoid leftovers.
- Tune Rinse Time:
- Too short leaves stuff behind; too long can wreck the stencil. Adjust based on emulsion and exposure.
- Keep Gear and Space Clean:
- Make sure the light’s steady—old bulbs or wrong wavelengths can mess up curing.
- Work in a clean spot to dodge dust or junk in the emulsion.
Things to Watch
- Rinse the stencil fast after exposure—waiting too long messes with the wash.
- If residue keeps showing, switch emulsion brands or boost the light.
- Watch water temp—too hot or cold can tweak emulsion performance.

Screen Not Exposed At All
Problem Description
If the screen doesn’t expose at all in screen printing, the whole emulsion stays soft and washes off completely during rinsing. No stencil forms, and printing can’t happen. It’s the worst exposure fail.
Cause Analysis
- No UV Light Reaching Emulsion: The light’s not working, or its wavelength doesn’t match the emulsion.
- Burnt-Out Bulb: The exposure unit’s bulb might be dead or too old to pump out UV.
- Wrong Emulsion Type: Using an emulsion that doesn’t fit the light or ink stops it from curing.
Solutions
To fix a totally unexposed screen, do this:
- Confirm UV Light is Working:
- Check if the exposure unit’s kicking out UV light the emulsion needs.
- Some emulsions need specific UV wavelengths—LEDs or sunlight might not cut it. Check the manual.
- Swap Out Dead Bulbs or Test a Spare:
- If the bulb’s shot or weak, replace it.
- Test with a backup light to make sure it’s putting out enough UV.
- Match Emulsion to Ink:
- Water-based inks need water-resistant emulsion; solvent inks need solvent-resistant stuff.
- Double-check the emulsion fits the ink and light—swap it if not.
- Check Exposure Settings:
- Make sure the time and power are set right—mistakes here kill curing.
- Clean bulbs and reflectors regularly for even light.
- Test Emulsion Quality:
- Old or badly stored emulsion (too hot or in light) might not work.
- Get fresh emulsion and store it right (dark and cool).
Things to Watch
- Test the light before every exposure to avoid wasting time and emulsion.
- If it keeps failing, try a new emulsion or upgrade the exposure gear.
- Block stray light so the UV hits the emulsion clean.
